Gastronomy: Homemade Gnocchi, an Easy Delight

I love gnocchi. And, although it continues to frequent more and more menus, it’s difficult to find a gnocchi that’s served the way it’s intended—light, airy, and delicate. Since I rarely make pasta, I shelved the idea of ever making homemade gnocchi, too. However, after watching season-after-season of Top Chef and repeatedly observing the chefs using gnocchi as their go-to pasta when under extreme pressure and time limitations, I finally realized that it may not be as difficult or tedious as I originally expected.

As fate would have it, the week I made homemade ricotta (http://modcitymom.blogspot.com/2011/03/gastronomy-homemade-ricotta-fun-making.html), I also stumbled upon Chef Michael Symon’s ricotta gnocchi recipe. No longer with any excuses in hand, I ventured to create my first homemade gnocchi and it was worth every last velvety bite.

Michael Symon’s Ricotta Gnocchi with Lemon Brown Butter

Gnocchi

• 3/4 c all-purpose flour, plus more to cover work space
• 1/2 c Parmesan cheese, grated
• 1 lemon zest
• 1 c ricotta cheese
• 1 egg

Lemon Brown Butter

• 1 stick of unsalted butter
• 1 lemon, sliced

In a large bowl, combine flour, Parmesan cheese, and lemon zest. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add the ricotta cheese and egg. Combine well with a wooden spoon or with your fingers until the dough just comes together, taking care to not overwork and causing the dough to toughen.

Scrape the dough onto a well-floured surface and pat into a rough square. If it’s tacky to the touch, add a bit more flour so you can form it with your hands. Evenly cut the pasta dough into 4 even pieces. Gently roll each piece into foot-long ropes, about 1-inch in diameter, flouring as needed to prevent the dough from sticking to the surface (think of making snakes with Play-doh). Cut each rope into 1/2- to 3/4-inch wide pieces. Place the gnocchi onto a floured, parchment or wax paper-lined, baking sheet and into the refrigerator, uncovered, until ready to cook.

In the meantime, add salt to a pot of boiling water. Reduce heat to a simmer, add gnocchi, and allow to cook, approximately 2-3 minutes. Continue to watch the gnocchi closely.

While the gnocchi is cooking, add butter and lemon slices to a sauté pan and melt over medium heat until brown and bubbly.

Once the gnocchi starts to float, remove from the water using a slotted spoon or hand strainer and add them directly to the butter mixture in the sauté pan. Allow to brown on medium heat for about two minutes.

Serve as a side dish for 4. Works wonderfully with a hearty salad and roasted pork or chicken.

Gastronomy: Bolognese, it's NO Beef-A-Roni

Growing up, I thought Bolognese equaled a can of tomato sauce plus a pound of semi-fatty grisly, ground beef. The only version that I was familiar with was not a far cry from canned Chef Boyardee Beef-a-Roni (my saliva production spikes just thinking about it). Somewhere in my culinary awakening (a journey that will continue for the rest of my life) I discovered that Bolognese (meaning Ragu) has many different interpretations—none of which are red, soupy tomato sauce paired with puréed ground beef.

This slow cooked dish is a layering of flavors that begins with finely chopped celery, onion, and carrots sautéed in olive oil. A combination of ground veal and beef (sometimes pork or sausage are used as well) is then added to the pan. Some people add milk, others cream, and depending on what region of Italy you are from, some argue for the addition of several other ingredients, including mushrooms, ricotta cheese, or chopped pancetta. But, no matter which ingredients you use, the dish is cooked ever-so-slowly until all the vegetable flavors and rich textured meats blend together making it other-worldly. Deglaze the pan with a heavy dowsing of wine and your palate will think it went to heaven and back.

Veal Sirloin Bolognese

1 lb ground veal
1 lb ground sirloin
2 15 oz cans whole tomatoes
2 15 oz cans chicken stock
1 c heavy cream
4 cloves garlic
1 medium yellow onion

3 large carrots
5 celery ribs
1 c white wine
1 lb linguine or tagliatelle
10 oz ricotta cheese

Parmigiano Reggiano (for top)

Olive oil
Salt and fresh ground pepper

Finely chop onions, celery, and carrots. Mince garlic. Place large pot over medium-low heat with olive oil; add onion, celery, and carrots. Sauté until veggies are soft, about 15 minutes. Add garlic, stirring constantly to avoid burning, about 5 more minutes. Add meat and a little bit of salt and fresh ground pepper. Cook until meat is browned and sweating liquids have dissipated. Deglaze with white wine and scrape the bits off the bottom of the pan. When the wine is completely evaporated, add drained tomatoes and chicken stock. Cook over medium heat 2-2 ½ hours. When liquids are almost gone, stir in cream and ricotta. Serve over pasta with a sprinkle of cheese and a glass of crisp white wine. Salute!

Serves 8.

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Gastronomy: Shrimp Scampi, a Bi-Weekly Classic

In my continued quest to cook all of the eight "classic" dishes that were featured on last season's Top Chef, I think I finally created a really great Shrimp Scampi. It is the perfect blend of acid, butter, garlic and fresh herbs. The best part about this dish is that it's fresh, delicious, and easy—even the clean-up is minimal.

Even though I wouldn't consider this one of the top eight "classic" dishes, the folks at Top Chef don't have to convince me to add this simple and tasty meal to my bi-weekly repertoire. Here's my recipe for the taking: Create, enjoy, and as always, drink a great glass of wine!

Shrimp Scampi

3/4 lb dry linguine

5 T unsalted butter

2 1/2 T good olive oil
2 large cloves or 4 small cloves of garlic

1 lb large, uncooked shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 1/2 t sea salt
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper

1/4 c fresh Italian parsley, chopped

2 T lemon zest, grated

1/4 c freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 lemon, sliced into rounds

1/2 c pasta water

1/4 c Parmesan cheese plus extra for top

Add linguine to a large pot of boiling, salted water and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, or according to the directions on the package. Reserve pasta water.

Meanwhile, in another large, heavy-bottomed pan, melt the butter and olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic. Saute for about 2 minute. Be careful, the garlic burns easily! Add the shrimp, salt, and pepper; sauté until the shrimp have just turned pink, about 7 minutes, stirring often. Remove from the heat; add the parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, and lemon slices. Toss to combine.

When the pasta is cooked, drain the linguine and add it to the pan with the shrimp. Immediately add the shrimp and sauce, toss well. Add parmesan and reserved pasta water, toss again. Serve hot with a generous sprinkle of Parmesan cheese.

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Gastronomy: Elevated Grilling

I’m always searching for a creative twist on grilling. Since we cook outside so frequently, thinking beyond burgers, chicken, and steak is a proposal that is wildly embraced by my family and a welcome relief to their collective palates.

Browsing through my old Gourmet magazines, I found the perfect elevated grilling idea: Ziti with Grilled Gazpacho Sauce and Sausage. Based on the classic Spanish soup, this broth-less version is a modern marriage of warm grilled vegetables, robustly flavorful sauce, and sweet Italian sausage. With a few adjustments to the original, this simple grill-based pasta dish has managed to replace one of our many, standard meat meals to become a grilling family favorite.

10 T olive oil, divided
2 t salt, divided
2 t pepper, divided
1 medium onion
1.5 pints cherry tomatoes
3 bell peppers, orange, yellow, or red
4 medium zucchini
5 garlic cloves
½ c fresh, flat-leaf parsley, divided
½ c fresh basil, divided
3 T red wine vinegar
½ t sugar
6-8 sweet Italian sausages
1 lb ziti
½ c French feta or shaved Parmigiano Reggiano

Stir salt and pepper into 5 T olive oil. Peel and quarter onion; separately thread onion pieces and tomatoes on metal or pre-soaked wooden skewers; set aside. Trim bottoms and tops off of bell peppers; half peppers length-wise and remove seeds. Trim and halve zucchinis, length-wise. Peel garlic cloves. Brush prepared vegetables and garlic with the seasoned olive oil mixture. Place oiled garlic on a double layer of foil and wrap tightly, twisting to seal.

Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking, medium, high heat. Grill vegetables and garlic covered, turning occasionally:

· Tomatoes, 3-5 minutes, or until slightly wilted
· Bell peppers, 8-10 minutes, or until skin is blackened in spots
· Onions and zucchini, 8-10 minutes, or until tender
· Garlic, 8-10 minutes, or until softened and caramelized in spots.

Transfer as cooked to covered platter.

Peel peppers. Divide tomatoes, bell peppers, and zucchini in half. In a food processor or blender, transfer half of the grilled tomatoes, 3 bell pepper halves, 4 zucchini halves, the entire onion, all of the garlic, 1 t salt, 1 t pepper, remaining olive oil, vinegar, sugar, ¼ c basil, and ¼ c parsley; puree until as smooth as possible, adding additional olive oil, if necessary.

Chop remaining peppers and zucchini; combine with the remaining tomatoes. Continue to keep vegetables warm on covered platter; set aside.

Grill sausages, 12-15 minutes, or until browned and cooked through.

While sausages are grilling, cook ziti, according to directions, until al dente; drain. Add sauce and grilled vegetables to warm pasta. Sprinkle with remaining herbs and cheese; serve with sausages.

Makes 6 servings.

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