Adventure Palm Beach: Buccan, a Go-To Destination

Any town populated with tourists in high season is usually not a destination for foodies. Restaurants experiencing high traffic in touristy vacation spots are infamous for lackluster food, second-rate service, over-priced run-of-the-mill drinks, and the typical chicken-finger kids' menu. On a recent vacation to Palm Beach, I was proven wrong.

Palm Beach has beautiful-old buildings, great weather, and an ocean view that is unmistakably gorgeous. It is also filled with wandering tourists, snowbirds, and mediocre restaurants. After a few abysmal dinners, I started to worry if we would have to settle for pizza every night. That was until my sister spotted a Tweet by foodie and author Michael Ruhlman, who was happening to visit Palm Beach at the exact same time. His suggestion? Buccan. With his recommendation in hand, I immediately made a reservation for my husband, my two young boys, and me. Buccan was so outstanding, we ended up going twice.

Buccan is not a family restaurant but if you go early, children are welcome. In fact, the food, our service, and the treatment of our four year old were unbelievable. The menu is comprised of mostly small plates that are approachable and utterly delectable in every way. The brick chicken served with Parmesan fries in a small, aluminum pot is delish. My son had it on both of our visits—the juices from the chicken were so amazing that I managed to get him to eat arugula if he dipped the leaves in the sauce.

Everything we had at Buccan including a spicy conch and octopus ceviche, beet salad, spring pea risotto, a squid ink orecchiette with house made sausage and conch, and a bacon-wrapped tuna were delicious. The Hamachi on a crispy lotus salad with spicy chilies, steak tartare with a crispy egg yolk, and a three-inch grilled swordfish steak are eats that I think about in the middle of the night. Because it was the best tartare of my life, my brain is still trying to determine how to recreate a crispy egg yolk. Desserts and cocktails were equally yummy and the wine list selection, both glass and bottle, were lovely. If you ever make it to Palm Beach, Buccan is a go-to destination. I would actually visit Palm Beach again, if only to dine there. Details: http://www.buccanpalmbeach.com/

Gastronomy: Love Life with a Little Carbonara

Sometime last year, while reading Michael Ruhlman’s blog, I was inspired. His article entitled simply “Carbonara” was about taking time out to have a meal and a glass of wine with his wife. I am sure you can relate: The conversations with your partner that were once about things you enjoyed have been replaced with logistics—a list of commitments, home maintenance, and child care schedules (a.k.a., the honey do list).

Ruhlman and his wife both work from home—he’s a chef and she’s a food photographer. His solution to “catching up” is to make lunch for his wife so they were able to partake in adult conversation over food and a good glass of wine. That particular day he made Carbonara.

Like most people, my husband does not have the luxury of working from home. And after taking care of the household tasks, children, and maybe squeezing in the occasional shower, the thought of cooking an easy meal seems overwhelming. Having an adult conversation seems almost lavish. However, we do have our weekend evenings, a heat lamp, and occasionally can escape to a good home-cooked meal and a glass of wine.

My version of Carbonara—spaghetti, thick cut bacon, eggs, cream, Parmesan, and Italian parsley is the ideal dish for this occasion or the simple weekday meal. When you have the chance, take an evening, cook an easy, mouthwatering pasta dish, and reconnect. You will find yourself in a state of contentment that you have not felt in long time and may be surprised how connected a good meal can make you feel. Sometimes as parents, we forget who we are as a couple. Cook a great dish, drink more wine, and most of all, love your life.

Carbonara

1/2 lb pancetta chopped or thick-cut bacon
2 T extra-virgin olive oil


2 large egg yokes
1/4 c heavy cream
1/2 c freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus 1/8 c extra for the top
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill

3 T chopped parsley
1 lb spaghetti

In a large, pot boil water for pasta. Place pancetta or bacon into the pan and cook until crisp at the edges; turn off heat. Separate two eggs yokes and place into a large serving bowl. Beat with a fork. Add 1/2 c Parmesan and heavy cream. Mix well. Add cooked, drained spaghetti and olive oil to the bowl; toss, coating the strands well. 
 Add a liberal amount of fresh ground pepper and 2 T parsley. Add pancetta and toss again. Top with final T of parsley and 1/8 c reserved Parmesan. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

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Gastronomy: Pot Roast En Vogue?

There are a countless number of famous chefs with blogs that offer great information and advice for the home cook. No, most of them are not from the Food Network (thank, God). Because these chefs are not considered “celebrity,” you may have never heard of them before, but I have a feeling that this trend is about to change. I have seen an increase of Internet writing from local chefs with Midwest roots. One of my favorite sites is by food writer, father, and chef, Michael Ruhlman.

If you are not familiar with Michael Ruhlman, you need to be—his books are a worthwhile read for any foodie and an essential addition to any cook’s library. Some of his more noteworthy contributions include, The Reach of a Chef: Professional Cooking in the Age of Celebrity, The Elements of Cooking, and a terrific blog with topics that range from brining at home to how to approach the subject of wine drinking with your kids. A couple of months ago, Ruhlman asked his readers what their thoughts were on the hot, new food trends.

Once again, he made me contemplate food in today's culture. There is always something that is the newfangled trend in the food community. In the last 15 years, I have experienced the Spanish tapas explosion, the Japanese sushi boom, and Ethiopian food as haute cuisine—all of which I love. Nevertheless, I have seen something completely different from my friends who like to entertain and cook—a return to the simple, not the bland or boring, but the fresh and easy.

For years, we were a world of plastic, processed foods, replaced by complex Asian meets Mediterranean meets Latin fusion. Lately, the restaurants I have visited in Chicago, seem to steer away from the amplified food experience and are showcasing simple foods—pot roast, lamb shoulder, organic veggies, roast chicken, and homemade mac and cheese. Why? Because when these dishes are done right, they are straightforward, uncomplicated, and incredibly satisfying.

I truly think the direction of the modern family kitchen is also moving towards (or returning to) local, seasonal, and uncomplicated cooking. My mother cooks wonderful meals and is the most hospitable person you could ever meet. She learned to cook from my grandmother who was also a really good cook, albeit a simple one. My grandmother walked to the produce market and the butcher almost every day—she bought what was fresh and reasonably priced to feed her family of six. It seems that my friends, who like to cook, are following in her footsteps. They have fresh milk delivered, boxes of local organic vegetables (when in season) dropped at their doorstep, and are making more braised meats with fresh vegetables from the farmer’s market. When you braise a pork shoulder or roast a whole chicken, throw in some fresh herbs and a side of buttered, fresh veggies—there truly is nothing better. The new trend may simply be to step away from over-processed foods and complicated dishes and return to the good, natural, home-cooked meal. Maybe, like Ruhlman reiterates on his blog, fresh and honest cooking should have never gone out of style in the first place. Details: blog.ruhlman.com.

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